Day Trips around Bordeaux, France
Me climbing the staircase at the Dune du Pilat in the Bassin d’Arcachon near Bordeaux, France. August 6, 2021.
Though no one will fault you for visiting the Bordeaux region of France for the wine and the wineries (the reason most people visit, I think!), the region has more to offer than all things viticulture.
When we stayed in the vibrant and growing city of Bordeaux—already the sixth largest city in France and likely to only move up in the rankings—we wanted to see what the city offered and get out of town a bit to see the larger region around it as well.
As most people really do visit the region around the city to visit wineries and go to wine tastings, most people share our desire to get out of town when staying in Bordeaux. However, no one in our group had much interest in wine.
Fortunately, the area around Bordeaux has several best-of-France attractions that anyone visiting this part of the country shouldn’t miss.
Dune du Pilat
Though a part of the bassin d’Arcachon (see below), the Dune du Pilat has enough clout to merit its own section on my list.
In fact, a guidebook to France that I bought back in 2017 listed the Dune du Pilat as one of the top fifteen attractions in the entire country, so I considered it a given that we’d see it when we finally made it to the Bordeaux region.
A unique combination of air and water courants has made this white-sand dune the largest in Europe—and each year, it grows even more. (Rumors run that it has already swallowed an entire hotel.) On one side, the dune faces a dense forest of lush green trees; on the other, it slopes downward to the crystal-blue Atlantic Ocean and the peninsula of Cap Ferret with its picturesque lighthouse.
Once you climb the Dune du Pilat, you’ll have incredible views in almost any direction.
Climbing it, though, takes some effort. Though you’ll find a convenient flight of stairs leading to the top, they have a steep pitch and will take the wind out of even the most in-shape of visitors—so brace yourself before you head up. To return to base level, you can choose a few different downward slopes to walk down: One steep and one longer, but less pitched.
Though we had incredibly fresh and almost chilly weather for early August in Bordeaux, trekking the Dune du Pilat’s sand in the afternoon or on hot days could burn your feet—something to consider when planning your trip.
And rather than simply hiking up and walking straight back down, consider bringing water, a blanket, and maybe a snack and spreading out for a bit at the top of the dune to take in the 360-degree view.
To reach the Dune de Pilat, you can get a train from Bordeaux or you can drive. The train will take longer, though riding it will spare you the massive amounts of traffic clogging the roads to the parking lots that service the dune. You’ll also spare yourself the cost of parking, which is the only charge involved in visiting the dune (which does not have a separate entrance fee).
Arcachon and the Bassin d’Arcachon
If you luck out and have amazing weather while in the Bordeaux region—and provided you have enough fitness for a day of flat-country, relatively easy biking—rent bikes in Arcachon and ride around the bassin d’Arcachon for a day, taking in the seaside villages, enjoying the natural splendor, and feasting on fresh seafood.
We had a family member with us who felt she’d gained enough life experience to choose the hike up the dune over a day on a bike (and who used her life experience to admit that she couldn’t manage both), yet we saw people of all ages taking advantage of the copious and well-marked bike paths throughout the entire bassin d’Arcachon region.
Via these bike routes, you can visit the Cap Ferret peninsula and its lighthouse (which has magnificent views) and the region’s acclaimed Réserve Ornithologique du Teich, dedicating to protecting and saving several rare wild bird species.
Arcachon is the largest town in the immediate area (and consider “large” relative in this context, given that it only has about 10,000 residents). In Arcachon proper, you’ll find several family- and tourist-friendly restaurants, a well-provisioned beach with a pleasure pier (replete with carousel and casino), and quaint villas to stroll past in a hilltop neighborhood called the “Ville d’Hiver.”
St. Emilion
Yes, I said I’d give you suggestions beyond viticulture in the Bordeaux region for day trips around the city. And you may see St. Emilion in my header here and think I’ve tricked you. Think again!
Trust me when I promise you that St. Emilion—despite the lofty reputation of its wines—has a lot more to offer than its surrounding wineries.
First, a word of caution after watching more than one not-feeble person take a serious tumble walking around St. Emilion: Though the wines may have a chic air, do not imagine that your clothing should match it when you visit the village from which they take their name.
The pathways in this tiny medieval town all have slippery, knobby cobblestones as paving and all have significant slopes. I wore flat sandals meant for long walks, not heels or strappy shoes, and still I envied a family decked out in high-top, ankle-supporting hiking boots on one of the walking tours with me.
To get the best perspective on the history of the town and the region, visit the St. Emilion tourist office on-line in advance of your trip and book guided tours. These guided tours will give you context you can’t get otherwise and will take you to areas closed to unescorted wanderers. By booking on-line and getting your tickets by e-mail, you’ll save yourself a wait in the on-site tourist office’s eternally massive line and you’ll ensure you get the tickets you want (as they often sell out well in advance).
The subterranean guided tour will show you the underground church, called the “église monolithe,” an incredible historical edifice carved into the village’s natural rocks and mountains replete with a hermitage, chapel, church, and catacombs—all from the 11th century.
The general walking tour of the city’s history, a separate tour on offer, will give you valuable context on the founding of the town and its development, including the origins and expansion of its winemaking.
After your tours, don’t miss strolling (or hiking) up and down through the town to see the views from on high and below. (While you do, don’t forget to stop in to buy the macarons unique to this little village!)
If you can come to St. Emilion in the shoulder season, whether in May or in September or early October, do so: The height of the summer vacation season will not only mean a town packed shoulder-to-shoulder with tourists and sold-out tours, it will mean extreme heat and little shade, too.
An Area Rich in History, Nature… and Wine
When you visit Bordeaux, most people will want to visit the wineries and do all things wine—as well they should.
But if you’ve made it all the way to this region of France, you should grab a day or two to see at least a few of the top sights around the city—and you should see the city of Bordeaux’s major tourist sites and attractions and feast on the delicious Bordelaise food, too.
As always, you’ll find France richer in culture and history than you could even have imagined.