What to Expect on a Winter Trip to Aix-en-Provence
A square in central Aix-en-Provence in winter, with cafes in full swing and holiday lights hung. December 2, 2021.
Readers may remember: I adored our visits to Provence in the summer.
Need a refresher? You can read about my summertime visit to Provence via these posts:
Didn’t bother to temper my enthusiasm in my write-ups, did I?
This enthusiasm begged the question: Would I like Aix-en-Provence (our base of stay in Provence) as much in the winter as I did in the summer? (Note: If you’ve come to this article to find a destination spot in Europe during the winter months, check out my article full of ideas for European winter vacations.)
With a window of opportunity for a work-from-wherever week, we headed over to find out.
The Weather in Winter in Aix-in-Provence
Aix-in-Provence in late November and early December felt much colder than I’d expected.
Provence has a ferocious wind that blows through occasionally called the “mistral.” It comes from any direction and at any time. When it arrives in winter, it has a cold that really snaps at you.
Therefore, if you visit Aix-in-Provence in the winter months, do not forget a warm hat, gloves, and scarf.
When the mistral doesn’t blow, the blue skies and sun of Provence—happily a near constant, no matter the season—make even December temperatures feel mild. Aside from mistral moments, I only felt the cold in Aix-en-Provence at night, after the sun had set. During the day, under the amazing Provencal sky, a sweater and light jacket felt just right.
A quiet street in Aix-en-Provence on a sunny winter day. November 30, 2021.
Can I linger just one more line or two on these Provencal skies? Because, truly, they will amaze you. My morale needed them more than ever in the midst of European winter, when day after day in most places passes dark and gray and damp and cold.
The Winter Vibe in Aix-en-Provence
I could add the advent of COVID to the differentiators between our summer and winter visits to Aix-en-Provence, as our summer trip took place in pre-COVID times.
However, though COVID certainly meant mask-wearing faces, COVID-pass requirements, reduced crowding and headcounts in many locations, and overall physical distancing, the welcoming and friendly atmosphere of Aix-en-Provence persisted.
Given that winter doesn’t bring the crowds that might require a best-foot-forward, all-smiles approach from merchants and restauranteurs who depend heavily on tourist revenue, a sunny mood in full force even in November and December makes me think that the legendarily warm Provencal attitude really is genuine.
As is the generally welcoming feel of the city, which, it turns out, lasts beyond the summer months. Though Aix-en-Provence had fewer tourists in winter than it did when we visited in the summer, it still had a healthy and vibrant street life, with musicians, markets, cafes, and people talking and visiting.
The square near the clock tower in Aix-en-Provence. November 28, 2021.
You know: That south-of-France vibe that everyone loves and that draws people to the region.
In winter, you’ll still find it.
What to Do in Aix-en-Provence in Winter
Winter travel always makes me wonder whether a city or place will have much to do, as even most locals tend to turn inwards and spend their leisure time with friends and family during the yucky-weather months.
However, Aix-en-Provence still had a lot happening, even in winter.
The museums in Aix-en-Provence and its environs offered regular operating hours and all of them had special exhibits running (and not just on holiday themes).
As we’d visited the museums in the area during the summer and as the special exhibits taking place during our winter visit didn’t entice me, I explored the city much more extensively on foot, even going on a few day hikes in the greater urban area. Even in winter, even for someone who doesn’t like the cold (like me!), the great outdoors in Provence brings magic.
The Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office offered fewer walking tours than it did during the summer, but it still had at least one running per day during the week and during the weekends. (Note: The guides conducted the tours only in French. However, the person leading one of the tours I took offered to translate the information into English, if needed.)
The city’s famed markets for food, handcrafted gifts and household items, and clothing and textiles all continued throughout the week, just like they do in summer. (Though, of course, the food offered evolves with the season.) The squares and promenades in Aix-en-Provence had at least one market each day during our visit.
Also, though we didn’t have a car this time, we easily popped down to Marseille via bus from the bus depot in the center of town. Marseille, as you’d expect even in winter from the second largest city in France, had its museums, sites, restaurants, and stores open and humming.
One of the regular weekly markets in Aix-en-Provence in winter. December 1, 2021.
And if you would like to experience a little holiday cheer during your winter visit, I don’t blame you—and Aix-en-Provence won’t disappoint you.
The city had a holiday market in full swing every day and night of our visit, featuring food, gifts, and even a few amusement rides. You’ll even find an entire section of the holiday market dedicated to Provence’s iconic santons, handcrafted figures used to create and decorate Christmas nativity scenes.
The holiday market at Aix-en-Provence features a special section with santon merchants of all varieties. December 4, 2021.
Did I Like Aix-en-Provence in the Winter?
Somehow, loving Aix-en-Provence even in winter didn’t surprise me. After all, I loved it just that much in summer.
Of course, I have a few more seasons to check out in Provence before I can say for certain that I enjoy the region all year around.
And I’m game for that project!